In the FoodEEs series, El Estoque staff members take on different food establishments, reviewing the menu items based on taste, price and authenticity.
In the Bay Area, Georgian food isn’t something you see every day. Located off of El Camino Real, Georgian specialty restaurant Bevri sits near Stanford University, and is known for their khachapuri bread and khinkali dumplings. Bevri prides themselves in their ancient amber European wine varieties, which are fermented in clay qvevri vessels in accordance with an 8,000-year tradition. The restaurant was also ranked as one of the 18 best restaurants in Palo Alto by Eater San Francisco.
Upon stepping in, the traditional warmth of a wooden cabin greets the senses. The smells of warm spices and freshly roasted meats meet the nose from the open kitchen, and soft ambient lighting creates a comforting atmosphere to sit and chat. Large bold text on the menu advertises European-style hospitality with no tips expected. But these strong first impressions are then soured by the menu’s inflated prices — almost everything is priced at over $20.
Pkhali ($15)
Pkhali is a Georgian starter that includes pastes made of minced vegetables, served with eggplant rolls and rosemary bread, starting off the meal strongly. This light dish comes with two different creamy flavors of Pkhali, beets and spinach, each with a smooth consistency akin to that of greek yogurt. With extra olive oil adding to its pleasant aroma, the accompanying rosemary bread is the perfect mix of a crispy crust melting into a moist and flavorful inside. When eaten in combination with the spinach pkhali and eggplant rolls, they make for a fresh addition to any meal. Although the beet pkhali adds a nice touch of light sweetness to the hearty Georgian meal, its rather strange flavor can be difficult to adjust to. The pkhali isn’t anything to rave about, but if you don’t finish it by the time the main course arrives, it continues to serve as a reliable refresher throughout the meal.
Rating: 3.5/5
Beef Kebab ($32)
The beef kebab is a letdown — it is nothing beyond a bland roll of low-quality patty meat that comes to the table already cold and greasy. Its appealing exterior lures you into a trap, as its taste is incredibly mediocre. Ironically, the saving grace of this dish is that the potatoes that come with it are flavorful and perfectly crispy, and the refreshing tomato sauce is something to look forward to. However, a platter of potatoes, no matter how nicely cooked, is hardly worth $32. Even the onions and herbs that bring some flavor to the table are not enough to redeem the dry ground meat itself. The beef kebab was unexciting for such an expensive dish, and pomegranate seeds, spices and other cosmetics are unable to hide the fact that this dish fails to live up to its price tag.
Rating: 2.5/5
Khinkali dumplings (5 for $25)
Khinkali dumplings are one of Bevri’s signature dishes, and for good reason. These dumplings were nearly the size of a hand, and the simple yet beautiful dish carries the comforting warmth of a meal cooked with care and intention. The thick skin has a firm chew, almost like udon noodles. Upon the first bite, the dumplings’ rich, soupy interior further boost their meaty flavors. The dish’s strong flavor can be credited to its lamb filling, which adds another layer of umami in comparison to the other options, pork or beef. These dumplings are perfect for dumpling enthusiasts and curious customers alike while proving to be sufficiently filling, as just a couple are enough to fill you up.
Rating: 4/5
Ojakhuri ($26)
Ojakhuri are supposedly a large hearty plate of sauteed potatoes and vegetables along with roasted chicken, but what Bevri serves is a scrappy bowl of potatoes and the minimum serving, which is no more than five pieces altogether — of chicken. People go to restaurants to eat well, not eat poorly, and nothing can justify the dish’s high price. The chicken itself has a crispy exterior but is quite dry on the inside, and potatoes are comparable to that of potato wedges — firm, but soft on the outside. Both are far from mindblowing, tasting like typical roasted chicken with little to no distinct flavors or traditional seasonings that would make it unique. This unmemorable dish is definitely not worth the hefty cost as it can barely be called a feast when both the serving size and looks ruined our appetite.
Rating: 1.5/5
Pork Chalaghaji ($43)
Bevri’s Pork Chalaghaji is slow cooked pork with a side of soft ajika bread rolls. With an easy to chew, soft texture, the baby ribs are stunning — a crispy exterior and tender interior leads to meat that practically melts in your mouth, adding to the dish’s quality. The pomegranates and herbs also add to the pork’s juicy and mouthwatering appearance, while the raw onions also contribute necessary richness. The dish tastes very similar to your classic American pulled pork with a unique barbeque sauce. To further boost the pork’s flavor, the soft ajika bread rolls are a fantastic addition to the dish — its interestingly spicy paste brings out Georgian cultural authenticity. As with all of Bevri’s breads, the rolls have a perfect crispy texture that gives way to a warm center. Unfortunately, the dish’s hefty price drags it down: it’s absolutely something to revel in, until you begin to consider whether it’s worth its expense or not.
Rating: 4/5
Overall Rating: 3/5
$$$/$$$
Despite its bloated prices and unremarkable serving sizes that leave customers’ bellies deflated, Bevri provides a phenomenal dining experience with a comfortable interior and cozy service. The waiters are professional yet friendly and conversational. It’s important to note that Bevri also puts heavy emphasis on their European wines, so dining experiences may vary based on eligibility and taste. Nonetheless, Bevri’s overall Georgian flavors and signature dishes make it an incredibly unique restaurant in the Asian-dominated Bay Area. Bevri is worth a try to those who are curious but nothing more; its jaw-droppingly high prices with a bad price to serving size ratio makes it hard to truly recommend Bevri as a restaurant to return to.
